Planning Part 20 - Days Twenty Five through Thirty Southern Ontario to Home

Days 25 - 27

Days 25 and 27 will be spent in Southern Ontario, and will be primarily reserved to visit with family and friends. We'll split our time between Windsor and Sarnia. If we do some excursions, the following are on the radar:

• Point Pelee National Park 
• Jack Miners Bird Sanctuary
• Colasanti'sTropical Gardens

 From there, it's the long trek home. Since we're leaving from Sarnia, we'll cut through the US to shave a day off the trip. On day 29 we'll come up to Manitoba and continue home along the TransCanada. The pace will be fairly grueling, but there will be some allowance for stops. At this point, we'll allow for more spontaneity as it will really depend on our appetite to get home or conversely get out of the car. 

 

 

 

 

Days 28 - 30

Day 31 - we're home and hopefully reveling in the epic adventure behind us!

Planning Part 19 - Days Twenty Three through Four Montreal to Toronto and Canada's Wonderland

After a breakfast of bagels, we'll leave Montreal and follow the St. Lawrence River to Lake Ontario, ultimately landing in Toronto. Just outside Montreal are a couple of Historic Sites to potentially check out:

• Lachine National Historic Site preserves an1803 stone warehouse and commemorates the area's history as the hub of the fur trade
• Coteau-du-Lac National Historic Site features Canada’s first lock canal and the remains of a fort, and celebrates the site's 7000 years of history as a portage, encampment, military fortification and canal
  

Day 23

As we cross into Ontario, the journey becomes more nostalgic. A number of years ago Jason and I made the trip from Ottawa to Toronto, stopping in Kingston for an afternoon. While the specifics are a bit foggy, I have strong memories of really enjoying the day, and am looking forward to recreating it. This will involve exploring the Kingston Waterfront, as well as some of the nearby Historic Sites:

• Bellevue House, former home of Sir John A. MacDonald
• Kingston Fortifications including Fort Henry, English defenses built in the 19th century

A brief stop at the Big Apple, in Colborne to satisfy our need for kitschy photographs and really good apple pie, and we head into Toronto. 

As I mentioned in our first planning post, Can We Do This?, we'll be constraining our time in Toronto and Southern Ontario as we travel here frequently to visit friends and family. However, the kids' sole request for this trip was to go to Canada's Wonderland, and given the hours in the car and historic sites they'll have endured up to this point, we'll all be ready for a little fun. So day 24 is allocated for a little roller coaster therapy.

Planning Part 18 - Days Twenty One through Three Montreal

As we're nearing the end of the trip planning, I find myself longing for more time (time for the trip that is, not the planning). It seems like we're leaving so much undone, and that even an extra day in each place would give us so much more opportunity. And while I appreciate the reality of our situation and the conscious decisions that have been made in that regard, I can't help feel this time crunch profoundly when it comes to Montreal. We'll likely arrive late on the evening of the 21st day, and will need to leave by noon on the 23rd. As such, we'll only have one full day to truly explore the city. There's a lot to see here, so decisions will need to be made wisely.



Day 22

It's been twenty years since I last travelled Montreal, but I still recollect being disappointed I didn't have time to visit Botanical Gardens. As I've researched the sites and attractions of Montreal, images of the unique topiaries and stunning landscaping have only served to heighten my interest. So hopefully I can get the family on side to spend half a day at Space for Life, which houses the Biodome (the Olympic velodrome that has been converted to house replicas of four North American ecosystems), Botanical Garden, Insectarium and Planetarium.

The rest of our day will likely be spent wandering Montreal's downtown neighbourhoods. The most notable, of course, is Vieux-Port de Montreal. Some of the things to see there include:

• Place d'Armes
• Basilique Notre-Dame 
• Saint-Paul Street
• Place Jacques Cartier
• Montreal Town Hall
• Bonsecours Market

Other areas  to explore include Mount Royal, Mile End and Marche Jean-Talon.



Planning Part 17 - Days Twenty and Twenty One South Shore Nova Scotia to St. John to Montreal

On day twenty, we'll leave Halifax and hit the road again. This time it will be a meander down the south shore of Nova Scotia, then zip over to Digby and a ferry ride across the Bay of Fundy to St. John. We'll need to be at the ferry terminal in Digby by 4:30 pm in order to make our 5:30 pm crossing, so we will have some time constraints, but should still have plenty of time to take in the sites if we get an early enough start.



Day 20

Peggy's cove is known for its lighthouse and rugged coast line, and is highly touted as a must stop attraction. However, I've heard from a number of people that Blue Rocks is equally as beautiful, but doesn't have the volume of tourist traffic. It also has the added benefit of being just off our main route. As such, it will likely be our choice between the two stops. Near to Blue Rock, is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lunenburg. A historical fishing village, it is known for its unique architecture, and as the home of the Bluenose.

After Lunenburg, we'll turn inland, and cut across the province to Digby. Along the way, we could potentially stop at Kejimkujik National Park & National Historic Site. The park protects traditional lands of the Mi’kmaw people including a collection of petroglyphs. While a lot of the park is backcountry, there are exhibits and short walks right off the highway, so it will be a good chance to stretch our legs.

I am suspicious that by the time we make it to Digby, we'll need to head straight to the ferry. But if there is time, we can make a visit to Port Royal National Historic Site. The site is a reconstruction of the first French settlement on the continent. It was abandoned in favour of Quebec City, which became the first permanent settlement.



Day 21

We'll wrap up the day by taking the ferry to St. John, where we will spend the night. The next day, we'll drive from St. John to Montreal. We have a couple of options related the route. We can double-back the way we came to Quebec City, then continue to Montreal. The other option is cut through Maine. Option one has the benefit of allowing us to remain in Canada, but the disadvantage of repeating a route we've already travelled. Conversely, option 2 provides new scenery and is slightly quicker, but forces us to leave the country. Either way, it will be a full day of driving and leave little room for exploration, so at this point, we'll leave it open to play by ear.

Planning Part 16 - Day Nineteen Halifax

On day nineteen, you'll find us bumming around the Halifax waterfront. In addition to checking out the shops and sites of the waterfront, including the Halifax Seaport Farmers' Market, there are two museums I'd like to visit.

Day 19 - Halifax

The Canadian Museum of Immigration is located at Pier 2, which was one of the main ports of entry for immigrants arriving via ship between 1928 and 1971. The museum chronicles this history as well as what it like to be an immigrant at that time.

The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic details Nova Scotia's maritime history including the Halifax Explosion and the sinking of the Titanic.

Nearby is the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site. Set up on a hill, the star-shaped fortress has protected the city since 1749. Unfortunately, we won't be there on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday evening when ghost tours are offered, but there is still plenty to see and do.

And if all that doesn't fill our day, we can head to Fisherman's Cove. Just 20 minutes out of downtown Halifax, this restored 200-year old fishing village offers site-seeing, shopping and dining opportunities.

Speaking of dining, I am also certain that Halifax will offer some culinary explorations. Of course,  everyone knows that seafood is the must-eat delicacy of the maritime provinces, but Halifax apparently has a number of other treats not to be missed. These include Larsen's hot dogs, donairs and Moon Mist ice cream. Though after finding out that the later is a mix of grape, banana and bubblegum flavours, I may have to leave the Moon Mist to the kids.

Planning Part 15 - Days Seventeen & Eighteen The Cabot Trail

On day seventeen, we'll leave from Antigonish to complete a two day tour of the Cabot Trail. The Cabot Trail comprises a 300km loop along the northern tip of Cape Breton Island. Despite its short distance, there is a lot to see along the way, including Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

Days 17 & 18

We'll take the counter-clockwise route to maximize our views. It also means we'll start the trek by visiting Bras D'Or Lake and the village of Baddeck. Some of the sites here include the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site and Uisge Ban Falls.

From there we move up to St. Ann's Bay and Ingonish. This is also our gateway to the National Park, which contains numerous beaches, scenic viewpoints and hikes of varying sizes. There are a number of smaller hikes that contain interpretive information or take you to a significant viewpoint that we are interested in completing:

• Middle Head - headland cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Cape Smokey and Ingonish Island
• Broad Cove Mountain - dense forest of softwood to the top of Broad Cove Mountain for exceptional views of the rocky Atlantic coast
• Green Cove - rocky granite headland jutting out into the sea
• Lone Sheiling - largest old growth hardwood forests in the Maritimes with a replica of a Scottish crofter's hut at the beginning of the trail
• Bog -boardwalk through a highland plateau bog
• Le vieux chemin du Cap-Rouge - the remains of an old school, foundations of the former residents' houses, and the old wharf at La Bloc

One trail in particular stood out - Skyline Trail. Aside from being the park's most iconic hike, it boasts spectacular westward views, making it ideal for a sunset hike. Fortunately, we'll be spending the night only a few minutes from the trail in Pleasant Bay, so our timing should line up.

The area is also known for Whale watching and there are a number of companies offering short excursions. There is plenty to see and do without a tour, but if we do have the chance to do one, I do think the boys will love it.

On day two, we'll head south through the park to Cheticamp, and then to Margaree. Maragree contains the Margaree Salmon Museum, which chronicles Nova Scotia's fishing history. After spending two days on the Cabot Trail, we'll drive to Halifax and continue our Nova Scotia adventure there.

Planning Part 14 - Days Fifteen & Sixteen PEI and Nova Scotia

I'm going to go out on a limb, and admit to a Canadian sacrilege... I have no desire to go to Green Gables. I loved Anne growing up and Green Gables is true Canadiana, but the whole thing seems overblown to me. The fact that a work of fiction, no matter how iconic, can overtake everything else a place has to offer is just too much for me. So even though we'll be close by, there is no intent to stop.

Day 15

Now that's out of the way... what are we going to do? We'll be situated close to PEI National Park, and with several beaches  and 50 km of hiking trails (including the famous red sand beach at Cavendish and the Greenwich Dunes), it seems like a clear winner for day fifteen. While I wouldn't classify Jay or myself as enthusiastic beach dwellers, I am pretty sure that after driving 5,000 km to the Atlantic coast, there would be a full-scale backseat mutiny if we didn't dedicate at least a solid portion of a day to some sun and sand. Fingers-crossed that Mother Nature agrees to this plan and cooperates!

The late afternoon and evening hold a number of possibilities, including a trip into Charolettetown, exploration of the north shore in search of good eats, and/or a visit to the Brackley Drive In. As authentic drive-ins are rare in this day and age, I must admit the last option holds some appeal.

Whether as a rainy day contingency, an evening visit or the first stop of day sixteen, our cross Canada adventure won't be complete without stopping in the birthplace of Confederation. Our must-sees for Charlottetown include the key national historic sites in the Great George Historic District, including:

• Province House (location of the Charlottetown conference of 1864 and home to the provincial government)
• Confederation Centre of the Arts (city block of Brutalist buildings that house Charlottetown's art scene, as well as the Story of Confederation exhibit while the interior of Province House is closed until 2020)
• Government House (official residence of the Lieutenant Governor)
• St. Dunstan's Roman Catholic Basilica

Day 16

Day sixteen will also see us leave PEI, and head to Antigonish (where we'll start our tour around the Cabot Trail on day seventeen.) Along the way, I'd like to stop at Joggins Fossil Cliffs. The cliffs of this UNESCO World Heritage Site reveal a complete fossilized ecosystem from the Carboniferous era (300 million years ago). I am science geek enough to not want to miss this.

From there we'll have the option of the scenic route (along the Northumberland Strait) or the direct route (along Highway 104) to Antigonish. If all of that hasn't worn us out, we can also take an evening jaunt up to Cape George Lighthouse, where there are stunning views from which both PEI and Cape Breton can be seen.




Planning Part 13 - Day Fourteen Bay of Fundy

The Bay of Fundy has been a finalist on the Seven Wonders of Canada and the Seven Wonders of North America (along with the Grand Canyon, Everglades and Yellowstone). Known for having the highest tides in the world, it also houses a National Park as well as several significant geological and ecological sites. And day fourteen will be spend exploring this wondrous place.

First stop of the day will be the Hopewell Rocks. This site both allows visitors to experience the highest tides in world and walk along unique rock formations at low tide. To truly experience it then, you need to be there at both low and high tide - this can be tricky at certain times a year, but fortunately for us, on July 14 the timing is almost perfect. Low tide is at 10:43 am, meaning we can walk the sea floor anytime between roughly 7 am and 2 pm. That means that the perfect time to visit will be just as we're heading out for the day. Conversely, high tide is at 4:30 pm - just as we're heading back through.

From there, we'll continue down the coast to Fundy National Park (with perhaps a quick stop at Cape Enrage for the view and Kelly's Bakery in Alma for Sticky Buns). The park offers more exploration of sea as well as a number of hikes that feature rare plant species and waterfalls.

If this is not enough to fill a day (or atleast to 4:30 when we are due back at Hopewell Cape), we can head further down the road to Fundy Trail Parkway for more views and coastal exploration.

The final attraction of the day will be Confederation Bridge, which we'll cross on the way to PEI - our resting place for the evening.

Planning Part 12 - Day Thirteen Quebec City to Moncton

After six days respite in Ottawa and Quebec, Day 13 sees us take to road once more. This time making the trek from Quebec City to Moncton. I was initially thinking we could visit Montmorency Falls and Ile d'Orleans on our way out of Quebec City. Rookie mistake as these site are located on the opposite side of the river from where we need to be, and will unfortunately add too much time to an already long day. So, we'll either have to incorporate them into one of our days in Quebec (which is likely for Montmorency Falls) or forgo visiting them (likely for Ile d'Orleans).


Fortunately, there are plenty of other potential stops along the way. Just before we exit Quebec, there's Lac Temiscouata Park that highlights the environment and landscape of the Monts Notre-Dame natural region. And, once we cross into New Brunswick, we can follow the River Valley Scenic Drive as laid out by the Tourism New Brunswick website. This drive will take us from Edmunston to Fredericton along Highway 2, with many potential stops along the way. The ones topping my list include the following:


Grand Falls Gorge: Walking trails and look outs provide stunning views of the waterfalls located in the centre of town.



Hartland Covered Bridge: Located in Hartland, NB, it is the worlds largest covered bridge, and a National Historic Site.


World's largest Axe: Located in Nackawic, NB... its a seven tonne axe, what more can I say...


Historic Garrison District of Fredericton: I am hopeful we will have a little time to explore Fredericton, but even if we can't fit in anything else, I would like to check out the Historic Site within the city's downtown.







Day 13

Planning Part 11 - Days Ten through Twelve Quebec City

The boys and I have been watching Canada: The Story of Us religiously every Sunday night. For those, unfamiliar with the show, it was made in honour of Canada's 150th, and through re-enactment, storytelling and guest commentary shares the tales of the people, places and events that shaped Canada. While the show has faced some criticism regarding its selection and depiction of historic events, I highly recommend it, especially for children.

Since the show is chronological, Quebec City (Canada's first permanent settlement) has factored prominently in the first few episodes. For the boys, this has created a curiosity and enthusiasm for visiting the place that no history lesson from Mom or Dad ever could have. I can only imagine that this will translate into a richer experience once we are there. For example, the boys aren't likely to grasp the nuances of the Seven Years war and the battles in the French and English colonies, but when they stand on the Plains of Abraham, they will be able to visualize the battle that took place there and understand it was significant to our country's history.

Map of Old Quebec City

For myself, I don't really need a television show to pique my interest in Quebec City. It's been on my bucket list since I was a child, and as such, easily wins as the location I am most excited to visit on this journey. Because of this, I am also not overly eager to over plan our stay here either. I would be very content leisurely discovering it at our own pace.

That said, there are a few things I don't want us to miss. The first being the changing of the guard at La Citadelle de Quebec.The Citadelle and it's museum are interesting sites unto themselves - being the largest British fortress in North America, home to the Governor General and an active regiment of the Canadian Armed Forces. But the changing of the guard, based on the ceremony at Buckingham Palace and involving Batisse the Goat, seems to bring the experience to another level.

Of course, the Fortifications of Quebec National Historic Site would be almost impossible to miss. I am sure the boys will be quite keen to see the musket firing demonstrations that they offer. Aside from that, I expect the bulk of our time will be spent wandering the Old City - something for which I am going to have bribe the boys with multiple servings of poutine.

Planning Part 10 - Days Eight through Ten Ottawa

 At the end of day seven we will land in Ottawa, where we intend to stay for three days. Clearly our nation's capital is an important stop on any journey focused on our cultural history. But it is also a chance for respite from the rigors on the road, to catch up on the necessities of life (laundry, restocking supplies and sleeping in), and most importantly, to visit with friends and family.

Central Ottawa, Main Attractions

While the intent is to be less structured about our city visits, there are several absolute must do's for Ottawa, of which a tour of Parliament Hill and walk along the Rideau Canal top the list for obvious reasons. While we are in the area, there's lunch at Byward Market, or at least a stop for a Beaver Tail; and perhaps a jaunt over the bridge to Gatineau to visit The Canadian Museum of History. Also within walking distance is the Royal Canadian Mint.

While these sites are topping the list, there are literally dozens of museums and sites to visit in the city including:

• Canadian War Museum
• National Gallery of Canada
• Diefenbunker: Canada's Cold War Museum
• Notre Dame Basilica
• National War Memorial
• Canadian Museum of Nature
• Canada Aviation and Space Museum

In addition to Ottawa's regular attraction, a number of events and installations in honour of Canada's 150th have been planned across the city. You can find out more about these activities at the Ottawa 2017 website.


Finally, our visit to Ottawa wouldn't be complete without paying homage to personal history as well. Jason has family roots in the city. His mother and aunt were born and raised there, and his paternal uncle lived his adult life there. More interesting, his grandmother has a special connection to Beechwood Cemetery (the National Cemetery of Canada) - having both been born and buried there. Her parents (Jason's great-grandparents) were custodians of the burial ground and its park-like surroundings, and as such lived on site. As was customary at the time, his grandmother was born at home (on the cemetery grounds). After a long life in the Ottawa region, she was finally placed to rest there as well. So on top of learning more about Canada's history, I hope the boys can learn a bit more of their history as well.

Planning Part 9 - Day Seven Algonquin Provincial Park

The joy in planning this trip has been in learning about new places we'll be able to discover when we actually hit the road. But there is a special anticipation that comes with finally planning to go to one of the places I've dreamed about for years. Algonquin Provincial Park is definitely one of those places, and it is no coincidence that the previous night's stop was Huntsville, ON. Huntsville is 30 minutes from the west entrance of the park, and the east gate is three hours from Ottawa. This means we can spend almost a full day exploring the park. It might not be the week long camping and canoeing adventure, or the lakeside chateau with Muskoka chairs that I always envisioned, but it will certainly give us an opportunity to get to know the area.


Day 7 Algonquin Provincial Park

There are a multitude of activities we could do while in the park - canoeing (there are canoe rentals available), swimming, educational programs and hiking. There are three hikes in particular that sound interesting and feasible (short enough to complete within our timeframe, and our children's hiking attention tolerance). These include:


Booth's Rock Trail - a 5 km trail that passes two lakes and goes to a lookout
Spruce Bog Boardwalk  - a short 1.5 walk through a Black Spruce bog
Bat Lake Trail - a 6 km trail through a hemlock forest to an acidic lake


If these options don't work out, there are literally dozens of stops along the 60 km drive though the park. There is no doubt we'll easily fill a day there. Once we're done, we'll head to Ottawa, and kick off another phase of the trip - one that is decidedly more urban and more focused on the history of our country.



Planning Part 8 - Day Six Sault Ste Marie to Huntsville

As I researched the drive from Sault Ste Marie to Huntsville, I was surprised by the number of things to do along the way. By now you should be able to spot the theme of my underestimating the number of attractions in Northwestern Ontario.

Just outside of Sault Ste Marie is St. Joseph's Island. The island, last of the Manitoulin chain, is known for it's boating and fishing opportunities, but also for it's beaches, trails and quaint towns. It's also home to Fort St. Joseph National Historic Site. In its prime the Fort was the most westerly British outpost in North America, and militarily solidified the British presence and allegiances in the area. It was eventually burned by American forces during the War of 1812. Now you can wander though the ruins of the Fort and enjoy the views of Lake Huron.

The are also two provincial parks along the way - Killarney Provincial Park and French River Provincial Park. Killarney is touted as being extremely beautiful with great wildlife viewing opportunities. French River has historic significance as a paddle route of First Nations, French explorers, fur traders and voyageurs. 

Day 6

Yet, despite peaking my interest, it is not likely we'll stop at any of these locations. Partially because they are a bit off our direct route, but also because we'll be due for a more kid-focused adventure.

With that in mind, there is one stop we'll absolutely make - Dynamic Earth in Sudbury. The museum focuses on geology and the mining industry, and includes a mine tour with a seven story descent underground in a glass elevator. Last, but not least will be a photo-op with the Big Nickel.

Our planned stop for the evening is Huntsville to situate us outside of Algonquin Provincial Park for our next day's adventure.

Planning Part 7 - Day Five Thunder Bay to Sault Ste. Marie

Image of Persian pastry from Wikipedia

In Planning Part 3 - Day Four Thunder Bay, Ontario, I talk about the decision to spend an extra day in the Thunder Bay area. Now that I have a better sense of what it is going to take to get to Thunder Bay (a.k.a. some very long days in the car), I am even more committed to that plan. So day four in Thunder Bay it is.


Once we've loaded up the car with Persians (deep-fried cinnamon buns with pink icing) as per our must eat local specialties rule, day five will see us hit the road again - this time making the trek from Thunder Bay to Sault Ste. Marie. Since we're on the subject of our road rules, this trip will provide ample photo-ops with quirky attractions - not the least of which include Winnie-the-Pooh in White River, the Wawa Goose in Wawa, and the Big Fish in Sault Ste. Marie.

Day 5

On a more serious note, day 5 will be another long day the car as we make our way around the north shore of Lake Superior. The main stop on this leg of the journey will be Lake Superior Provincial Park. The park encompasses 1600 sq. km. (618 sq. mi.) of northern Ontario wilderness and Lake Superior shoreline.

Map from Friends of Lake Superior Park website

There are many hikes, including a number of small ones that could be completed as part of a day trip. I've seen many recommendations for the views from the Old Woman's Bay trails, so we'll likely make a stop there, as well as a few other viewpoints along the way.

The main attraction for me however, are the Agawa Rock Pictographs. This sacred site  of the Ojibwe was used to record dreams, visions and significant events. A short, but rugged trail takes you down to the base of a rock cliff that houses red ochre paintings of canoes, animals and spirits.

According to Ojibwe oral history, the people originated at the mouth of the St. Lawrence and over thousands of years migrated through northern Quebec, Ontario and Minnesota, ultimately becoming the second largest indigenous group in Canada and fourth largest in the United States. The Ojibwe are known for their birch bark canoes, birch bark scrolls (which housed detailed historical records), mining and trade in copper, and cultivation of wild rice. Treaties signed between European-Canadian leaders and the Ojibwe were essential to European settlement of the West. Thus the Ojibwe people were critical forces in both pre- and post-European history, and their birch bark canoes have become a quintessential Canadian image. Petroglyphs and pictrographs, such as the Agawa Rock site, were the main way this group left their mark on the landscape. Fingers crossed that Lake Superior will be calm enough for us to visit this important site.

Although, we likely won't have a long layover in Sault Ste. Marie, it is a point of interest in and of itself. It was a traditional gathering place of the Ojibwe people during white fish season, and was first colonized by European missionaries in 1668, making it one of the earliest settlements in North America. It later became a fir trading post and expanded to both sides of the St. Mary's River. After the War of 1812, the St. Mary's became the dividing line between the United States and Canada, and the once cohesive community was split in two. Today, they are joined by the International Bridge.

Historic sites in the city include Ermatinger Clergue National Historic Site and the Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site. The canal was built in 1895 and was the last link in the marine transportation system stretching from the St. Lawrence River to Lake Superior. The seaway remains an important shipping corridor for both the United States and Canada, and handles 40 to 50 million annual tons of cargo. Given it's significance, it will definitely be something to take in before we leave the Soo.

Planning Part 6 - Day Three Winnipeg to Thunder Bay

The bulk of day 3 will be spent in the car as we make the trek from Winnipeg to Thunder Bay - an 8-9 hour journey unto itself. We'd be remiss, however, not to make a detour for our first National Historic Site - Lower Fort Garry. Lower Fort Garry was built in 1830 by the Hudson's Bay Company as a trading post, and became a major centre for business for the Red River Settlement and surrounding area. Being located at the confluence of the Red and Assiniboine Rivers it was also a shipping port for the York boats that transported goods to the Hudson Bay. Most notably, it was the location for the negotiation and signing of Treaty No. 1 between the First Nations and the Crown in 1871.

Preserved within the grounds are original stone structures as well as many reconstructed or replica buildings that display various architectural styles. The Fort also contains many collections of artifacts including several York boats. Given the amount there is to see, and daily activities at the Fort, I anticipate we'll spend several hours there. After which, we'll need to hop in the car and start making our way east.

Day 3 Part 1

For this leg of the journey, there are not a lot of planned stops in terms of attractions or historic sites. This is, however, a good time to discuss a couple of our key road rules:

Rule Number 1: If you hear about a good place to eat... you eat there.
As self-proclaimed foodies, eating - in particular, trying local specialties - will factor prominently in this trip. So when we hear of a regional specialty, local hot spot or unique treat, the mandate will be to seek it out. Needless to say then, that when I heard the town of Lockport described as "hot dog stand heaven", it warranted addition to the list.

Rule Number 2: Photos must be taken with all kitschy roadside attractions
Canadian towns have a strange affinity for oversized, quirky landmarks. Don't believe me? Google giant perogy on a fork, or UFO landing pad, or my hometown icon, Pinto McBean. I truly believe our tendency to sensationalize the mundane is a truly admirable trait, and something to be celebrated. There are many reasons to stop in Kenora, ON, not the least being it's the last place for gas for several kilometers. But the real reason I want to stop is "Husky the Muskie"... a forty-foot sculpture of a fish. 

Planning Part 5 - Day Two Saskatoon to Winnipeg

Day two of our trip should provide less of a conundrum than the first - continuing east from Saskatoon toward Ontario, all roads pretty much converge on Winnipeg. Highway 16 is the most direct route, but a  detour slightly north on Highway 5 in Saskatchewan will provide some interesting stops. The driving time alone will be approximately 8 hours, which means we'll need to be judicious with our stops and won't likely be able to spend much time at all these places or even visit them all, but here's a healthy itinerary of some things to see and do between Saskatoon and Winnipeg.

Day 2 Part 1

The stops on the first leg come from Saskatchewan Tourism's Multicultural Heritage of Saskatchewan Driving Tour. While we won't complete the entire tour, I've picked out a couple of stops that seem interesting.

Humboldt, SK
The town of Humboldt houses the Humboldt and District Museum as well as murals on the German-style  buildings. The original Humboldt site (slightly east and south of its current location) was a communications (telegraph) hub for the North-West Rebellion of 1885, and today, houses several storyboards to tell of this history. Since learning more about the rebellion, I have to admit to being kind of bummed about not being able to visit some of the historic sites related to it. So, I am excited about having at least one stop related to this event.

St. Peter's Cathedral, image from Wikipedia

Muenster, SK
In Muenster, another German-style town just down the road from Humboldt, St. Peter's Cathedral arises out of the prairie landscape. It boasts twin towers on the exterior, and a beautiful interior that contains 80 life-sized paintings and frescoes of religious figures.

Yorkton, SK
Back on Highway 16 east, you come to Yorkton, SK. Attractions here include St. Mary`s Ukrainian Catholic Parish with an elaborately painted dome, and the Western Development Museum, which chronicles the settling of the prairies.

Not far past Yorkton, is the Manitoba border, and the second leg of the journey. A great source of information on things to see and do is the Travel Manitoba website.

Day 2 Part 2

Minnedosa, MB
Having worked for a company with a plant in Minnedosa, I have a curiosity to stop in this town I have heard about for years. As luck would have it, Minnedosa is also home to the Minnedosa District Museum and Heritage Village.The village consists of eleven furnished historical buildings, a restored blacksmith`s shop, windmill, waterwheel and much more.

Neepawa, MB
Just down the road from Minnedosa, is the town of Neepawa. The town boasts a number of historical buildings including the Beautiful Plains County Courthouse (National Heritage Site) built in 1884, Beautiful Plains Museum housed in a CNR station built in 1902, and the home of famed Canadian author Margaret Laurence.

Portage la Prairie, MB
This city`s name, derived from the prairie portage between the Red and Assiniboine rivers and Lake Manitoba, is historically significant in and of itself. It is also home to Fort la Reine Museum. The museum contains  28 heritage homes and buildings, and is designed to provide a glimpse into the life of prairie pioneers.

Winnipeg, MB
This will be one of our fullest days of driving and touring. Even if we decide not to stop at each of the attractions noted above, it will be quite late by the time we arrive in Winnipeg, and we will not likely have time to see or do much there. Fortunately, Winnipeg is one of the few places we`ll pass through twice. So while I`ve compiled a decent list of things to see and do in this city, its not likely we`ll tackle any of them until our return trip.

More than likely our second day will conclude in a hotel on the outskirts of Winnipeg, with us stopping just long enough to rest for our next day`s adventure.

Planning Part 4 - Day One Saskatchewan

Planning our trek through Saskatchewan has proven to be a bit of a conundrum.

While we will technically travel through this province twice (once as we head east, and again on the way back to Calgary), I know us... given the return trip will occur on the final days of a month on the road, it is safe to presume that our sights will be firmly fixed on home. We won't likely stop for more than base necessities - gas, food and bathroom breaks. If past experience is any indication, the last two will be considered largely unnecessary by our driver... at least until the integrity of our backseat is threatened.

As we've decided not to linger in the western provinces due to their proximity to home, that leaves us a day and a half in Saskatchewan and two dilemmas - what route to take, and what to see. Or perhaps more aptly, what not to see - because there is so much we're going to miss.

Given my desire to focus this trip on our country's history, there are several routes we could take. A route north of Saskatoon would take us into to heart of the North-West Rebellion of 1885. Faced with the loss of the buffalo and the prospect of losing their lands to incoming settlers, the local Métis and First Nations populations enlisted an exiled Louis Reil to petition the government on their behalf. The situation soon escalated into insurgent combat, with important battles fought at Batoche and Fort Battleford, both of which are now National Historic Sites. I'd love to learn more about this period in history, and the Trails of 1885 website provides some excellent self-guided driving tours for this region. Unfortunately, it is a little too far north to be practical for this trip, so it will need to be saved for another time.

Southern Saskatchewan is equally historically significant, having hosted the North West Mounted Police as they marched west to curtail the whiskey trade and bring law and order to the frontier. Fort Walsh has been designated a National Historic Site, and memorializes the relationship formed between the NWMP and the First Nations. In addition to history, there is also a wealth of natural and geographical spots of interest including Cypress Hills, Grasslands National Park, Big Muddy Badlands, and the Great Sand Hills. Saskatchewan Tourism provides an intriguing 6 day itinerary for this area in its Cowboy Country Driving Tour. The minimum six day tour highlights that simply passing through this area wouldn't do it justice.

Having thus ruled out the north and south routes, we are left with the middle. Day one would take us from Calgary through the badlands near Drumheller, through Kindersley, SK and ultimately stopping in Saskatoon. Although Saskatoon is only 5-6 hours from Calgary, and despite an interest in visiting Wanuskewin Heritage Park since it opened in 1992, I've never actually been there. Thus, it seems fitting to start the trip by fulfilling a long-held desire. It also seems fitting to start our historical exploration of Canada with the First Nations, who inhabited this land for 20,000 years prior to anyone from Europe setting foot on it.

Given that we have had a decent number of trips to Drumheller area, we won't likely stop there for any significant amount of time. In fact, we may choose another, slightly faster route to the south. One potential stop would be the Ancient Echoes Interpretive Centre in Hershel, SK to view the small town museum of fossils and petroglyphs (the archaeologist in me wants to see the petroglyphs). Other than that, there is not much between Calgary and Saskatoon than open road and prairie. 

Hopefully, with an early start we'll have time the first day to visit Wanuskewin (if not we'll fit it into the next day). The park is located on a traditional gathering place of the Northern Plains First Nations with archaeological finds dating before the pyramids of Egypt. It boasts interpretive walks as well as an interpretive centre.

If we stick to our planned start date of July 1 (I'm toying with leaving on June 30, but that's another post...), we'll be in Saskatoon for Canada Day. That means that after spending some time exploring the city, there is a very good chance that we'll end day one in Diefenbaker Park watching fireworks.

Planning Part 3 - Day Four Thunder Bay, Ontario

As per the current planned itinerary, Day 3 ends in Thunder Bay, ON. I'll confess a general ignorance of this part of the country. Unfortunately, I don't think I am alone in this - despite its stunning beauty, Northern Ontario just doesn't get the same kind of exposure as the charm of the Maritimes, the old-world feel of Quebec or the rugged beauty of the Rockies. As a result, I didn't give too much thought to this area when doing my initial planning, and hadn't planned on spending more than a night there.

Terry Fox Memorial, Image from Wikipedia

My first itinerary adjustment is to right this wrong. With so much to see and do in the Thunder Bay area, it warrants an extra day to do it justice. To be fair, it warrants more than an extra day, but that's all we can spare, so a full day it will have to be.

We will likely be rolling into Thunder Bay sometime in the evening of the third day. We'll be coming from Winnipeg, and even without any stops will be looking at a seven to eight hour drive. Once we find dinner and get settled, this will probably leave just enough time to see the Terry Fox Memorial or walk the waterfront. Everything else will need to fit into the next day.

 The area around Thunder Bay is literally packed with parks and conservation areas, including the Lakehead Region Conservation Areas, Lake Superior Marine Conservation Area, Pigeon River Provincial Park, Wabakimi Provincial Park, Quetico Provincial Park, and Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park... but there are two in particular that have captured my curiosity.

Sleeping Giant, Image from Wikipedia

Kakabeka Falls, 25 minutes outside of Thunder Bay, is home to Ontario's second highest falls. As well as viewing the falls, there are several short walking trails.

Sleeping Giant first caught my attention when I read it was a finalist in the Seven Wonders of Canada. When viewed from a certain angle, the rock formation indeed looks like a prone sleeper. But its the beauty of the park when you are actually in it, the hiking and wildlife viewing opportunities that are most captivating.

 One top of visiting those two natural parks, there is Fort William Historic Park. This reconstruction of the North West Company Fur Trading Post depicts the lives of the Metis, Scottish, First Nation and French-Canadian trappers and traders that lived at the post, and played a pivotal role in settling the West.

The last must do of Thunder Bay - a visit to the Persian Man for the local pastry specialty.

Planning Part 1 – Can we do this?

My ideal cross-Canada trip – if time and money were no object – would involve not just visiting all provinces and territories, but meandering through them, and experiencing all each region had to offer. I’d visit each national park, every major centre, all the landmarks… taking time to explore each, lingering where I wanted. But alas, Freedom 45 is not in the foreseeable future, and thus our adventure will be constrained by the realities of life – a mortgage to pay, house to take care of, jobs to get back to, kids that are bound to get cranky sitting in the car for eight hours every day. A month is really all we can offer up to this endeavor. As a result, before we could even consider this further, the first question we had to answer was “Is it even possible to drive across Canada in 30 days?”

The answer is “Yes… sort of”. Randy Olson, a computer science PhD candidate at Michigan State University, used a computer algorithm to calculate the best route to visit all provinces and territories (except Nunavut, which has no roads) for the Huffington Post Canada. His journey, based on 6 hours of travel a day, would take 32 days. That’s one way of continuous travel – no additional days in any location, no deviating from the path, no stopping to see friends and family, no return trip.

The biggest mistake foreign travelers make when coming to Canada is underestimating its size. Check out this link to a map of Canada superimposed over Europe – our country spans an entire continent. You could drive all the way from Portugal to Greece and still not be as far as Vancouver to Ontario. A born and bred Canadian, I am familiar with the vastness of our country. Even so, it’s hard to fathom just how big it is until you start planning a trip like this. The thirty days I initially thought would be more than enough, is going to be tight – we won’t be able to see it all, do it all. But with the right choices, we can do it.

Someone once told me that they key to doing anything (or getting through anything) is understanding that no matter how enormous the challenge seems to be, it is just a series of individual decisions. You make one then move on to then next until you are done. And so, our series of decisions began:

·        Car travel only or train/bus/plane too? Car travel only

·        Return trip or one way and fly home? Return trip

·        Our vehicle, buy a camper van, rent a vehicle? Our vehicle

·        Camping or hoteling? Hoteling

·        Go into the US or exclusively travel in Canada? US, a little on the way home

We had the basic parameters, now it was time to start mapping out a route. The Yukon and Northwest Territories were scratched off the list immediately (Nunavut was never an option as it is not accessible via car), and soon after British Columbia was too. The North remains a bucket list item, but is far too remote – it’s just not feasible given our constraints. BC was a tougher call. On one hand, it is a unique and integral part of this country. On the other, it is relatively close to home, and an area we travel to frequently. Adding days to get out to the West Coast, then to double-back and drive past home to continue with the rest of the trip felt incongruous.

So Calgary east it was. We began mapping out a few itinerary options, and in doing so, realized Newfoundland also needed to be cut from the plan. This was a tough blow as there was so much I wanted to see and do in Newfoundland. My heart still aches when I see pictures and articles of Gros Morne, L'Anse aux Meadows or Quidi Vidi, but including Newfoundland would take 6-10 of our thirty days. There is simply not enough time.

We also had to make a few compromises related to how long we would stay or how much we would see in some areas. If it was close to home (a.k.a. Saskatchewan or Manitoba) or an area we visit frequently (a.k.a. Southern Ontario), we’ve constrained our time there on the presumption there will be plenty of opportunities to make a return visit in the future. We also decided to shorten the trip home by cutting through the US for a few days. This way we will be able to maximize our time in the places we’ve never been and are difficult to reach.

Like life, the trip is not perfect – there are constraints, cuts and compromises. But in the end, I think we’ve come up with something pretty darn good. The details still need to be worked out, dates and locations confirmed, but here is rough draft of our trip itinerary: